attach toilet to floor

at high speeds. Instead, they secure to a toilet flange. If you damage the outflow pipe in the process, you’ll be facing costly repairs. Unfortunately, PVC cement is permanent, and I ended up cutting a sizable chunk of the old pipe down with a Dremel tool (only thing I could use to cut below floor … It’s also important to read the industry code for toilet fitting relevant to your location and building materials, as local variations may exist. The toilet flange is a pipe fitting that both connects the outflow pipe to the toilet and the toilet to the floor. Most toilet flanges are 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch thick and are designed to fit either a 3-inch or 4-inch pipe. The neck of the flange should have a rubber gasket that creates a seal against the inside of the overflow pipe. Hold the toilet upright over the flange and guide the bolts through the holes in the base as you lower it in place. There are bolt holes on the inside though (accessible from the rear) which I believe line up with the regular toilet bolt holes. I've run into a similar problem with a slab foundation and terribly rotted closet flange (metal) attached to PVC pipe. As explained above, the lip of the toilet flange should sit flush on the floor all the way around. If the toilet isn't moving that much, you can slide a metal or plastic shim underneath from the outside. In either case, it is best to call a plumber. However, by blocking it now, you stop sewer gases earlier and provide protection against accidentally losing things—wax ring bits, screws, bolts, etc.—down the pipe. However, if the old flange has broken into pieces, you’ll definitely need this measurement. The new toilet flange set should come with nuts, bolts, and washers, but keep these ones handy just in case you need them. This article has been viewed 528,619 times. If you have an old flange made of cast iron that’s joined to a cast iron outflow pipe, you’ll have to meticulously chip away at the flange lip with a chisel and rubber mallet. It has a hub with a rubber sleeve that should be facing up. Fitting the new toilet. When a toilet is leaking from the base, you may need to replace the toilet flange. First set the toilet in place (without the wax ring) and square it up to the wall. Remove the center plastic disk with a hammer. Why? Thank you, I didn't have to call a plumber! We use cookies to make wikiHow great. Remove the toilet and turn it on its side. While the tank fills, check for leaks at the connection point between the supply line and the toilet tank. wikiHow's. Once it's on the floor, push down on the bowl to compress the … Loosen the two nuts on either side of the floor of the toilet. The wax will likely come off in sticky chunks. The flange should be placed over the pipe so it lays flat against the concrete floor. The bolts should now be sticking up so the toilet can be placed over them. Read on for tips on removing a glued-in flange and reinstalling the toilet! Once the toilet has been removed, plug the outflow pipe with a towel, and then scrape off the wax ring. Existing holes from the previous flange may be in the same location but be too large to hold the new screws. Do you have to replace the flange when you get a new toilet or can you just replace the wax ring? I have to fix a new toilet to my daughter's downstairs toilet.She has just had the floor retiled. The bottom face of the flange should rest on (or be supported with spacer rings to be even with) the finished floor, so that the entirety of the flange is above the finished floor. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/f\/f6\/Replace-a-Toilet-Flange-Step-1-Version-2.jpg\/v4-460px-Replace-a-Toilet-Flange-Step-1-Version-2.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/f\/f6\/Replace-a-Toilet-Flange-Step-1-Version-2.jpg\/aid1804632-v4-728px-Replace-a-Toilet-Flange-Step-1-Version-2.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":728,"bigHeight":546,"licensing":"